Tunic Delight - Vogue V1937 - Sandra Betzina

 

Pattern Description:  Misses' Dress and Tunic:  Pleat front A-line dress or tunic with back yoke.  View A has side seam pockets, contrast collar, cuffs and hem facings.  View B has lantern sleeves, contrast upper sleeves, yoke lining and hem facings, stitched to outside.  Purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing:  A - J corresponding measurements included.  I made view B (tunic), and I used sizes E and F.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  The sleeves were slightly longer on me than on the model.  It could be related to the sizing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, the instructions were easy to follow.  Sandra Betzina also included some tips for making bust and back adjustments along with some construction tips.  Note:  I still need to tack down the front pleat.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I have a few likes:  The lantern sleeves are beautiful; the trim around the neckline and below the yoke, and the contrast at the hem.

No real dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I used an Ankara fabric that I purchased at Djenne Collection on 95th Street.  The contrasting fabric is a basic cotton from JoAnn's. All fabrics pre-washed and dried.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a few small changes:

• I made bias tape for the trim instead a purchasing a fancy trim.  This first tunic was to test the pattern and the design for me.
• The sizing - I tweaked the fit between sizes E and F.
• I added 1/2" across the shoulder blades for prominent shoulder blades.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think I will make the tunic again in one of the recommended fabrics.  I used a crisper fabric because I was going for more of a dashiki look.  With a crepe or silky fabric the tunic will hang closer to the body and have more drape than my version of it. I also want to make the dress.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  I do suggest that you should transfer all markings especially on the front of the top.

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this tunic.  It was not difficult to sew and the instructions were good.  The finished top really looks great.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing it soon.

Thanks and Happy Sewing,

Cennetta

 

Cute Sassy Little Cold Shoulder Dress - V1674

I don't mind making multiple garment for the same pattern.  It's an opportunity to use a different fabric or make design changes.  Both can result in a totally different look.  

This is the second time I've made Vogue V1674, view B.  Once again I made it using a knit print fabric.  For this version my fabric was purchased at Vogue Fabric warehouse a few weeks ago.  I was in a big hurry to make sometime out of it, and this pattern fit the bill.  My fabric was pre-washed and dried. 

There was no real fit issues.  I simply added a little width along the side seams just in case.  Everything workout fine.  The dress fits same as before.  Here is the first version that I made a few years ago. 

That's all for this posting.

Happy Sewing!

C

Djenne Collection - Clothing and Fabric - Store Review

 I can't believe I've never reviewed this store.  It is a gold mine filled to the brim with African attire and Ankara fabric.  It is a must shop at store located on west 95th Street in the Beverly neighborhood of Chicago.

Djenne Collection

1759 West 95th Street

Chicago, IL  60643

The store is huge, or it appears to be huge.  At the front of the shop are accessories, jewelry, skin care, and all kinds of scents for the home.  Clothing is throughout to the rafters, literally.  In the middle of the store is Ankara fabric heaven.  At the back of the store, there are tailors and seamstresses.  You rarely see them.  But every once in a while, someone will emerge from the back of the shop.

I have shopped there numerous times.  In the passed, I've had clients who wanted an African styled garment for Black History month.  Most recently, Calumet Middle School, has commissioned stoles made of Kente clothe.  For one of my recent projects, I wanted to use Ankara fabric for it.  Djenne is the place to go!

The staff is always courteous and helpful.  You are greeted with a smile and a helpful attitude.  Great place to shop.  I only wish there were more ma and pa shops like this around town.

This is one of my favorite things in the store, a symbol chart.

As you can see, I took lots of pictures at my last visit, in February, to give you an idea of what the store looks like.

Happy shopping!

Cennetta

Notes on a Pattern - Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial McCall's M8240

This is my muslin

It has been a while since I did a Notes on a Pattern.  

This top is all over social media.  I hesitated to make it for fear of the front placket not being perfect.  To help myself, I researched for some tutorials to get a flawless placket.  I did find a few on Instagram that were helpful.  An easy fit.  My other concern was with the FBA adjustment.  Could I get away without adjusting?  So for my wearable muslin, I decided to use the molly t-shirt front pattern as a sloper for the FBA. 

Well, it didn't exactly work to my liking.  The center front hem is slightly higher than the rest of the hem. So, I did the next best thing:  I made a traditional FBA for the best fit.  Today, I am posting a FBA tutorial for this McCall's pullover.

Below is my tutorial:

Step 1 - Draw the lines to prepare for the slash and spread of the pattern sections.

Step 2 - Cut along the line 1 and spread the desired amount of the adjustment.  In this instance, the amount is 1".

Step 3 - Cut and spread line 2 at the bust area to bring balance back to the side.

Step 4 - fill in with tissue paper along line 1 and 2.  Tape in place except for the lower right portion severl inches above the hem.

Step 5 - Cut and spread line 3 to true up the hemline.  Then fill in with tissue paper.

Step 6 - trim tissue paper all except for the bust area.

Step 7 - Fold the dart in half to trim tissue paper.  True up the bust dart along the side seam.

That's it for the basic traditional full bust adjustment.  I hope this information/tutorial is helpful.

Happy Sewing!

C

Vogue V2049 - Quick Post of Me Wearing the Bodysuit

 

Happy Sewing!

C

Joggers To Love - Vogue V8909

Yes, these are joggers to love.  I've made them about four times.  So, this pattern is a TNT.  My first pair are reviewed here.

There isn't much more to say about these other than I did a little leg treatment at the bottom of each of my latest pair.  The green pair is my favorite.

I will certainly make several more in the coming years.  So that's all for now.  

Parting Photos:

Here are a few pictures of me and Bonnie (one of my sewing students) on our February field trip to Vogue Fabric warehouse.

Vogue V2049 - New Pattern Release in Review

When I saw Vogue V2049 bodysuit pattern in the catalog, I had to have it.  And a few weeks ago, I was finally able to purchase it at the JoAnn's pattern sale.  Days later I cut it out and begin to make the fit adjustments.

At times making the fit adjustments can take just as much time as it does to sew up a simple t-shirt.  For this top, I got the brilliant idea to use my Molly Tee pattern as a sloper in hopes of speeding up the process.  Low and behold, it was spot on with the adjustments.  

I was extremely happy not to do the entire process of slashing, cutting, and taping. So, here is my review:

 

 Pattern Description: Misses' Bodysuits:  close-fitting bodysuit has asymmetric neckline stabilized with 1/4" elastic, bust darts, long sleeves and fastens with snap closures.  View A has front and back gathered drape pulled through loop.

 

Pattern Sizing:  8 to 26.  I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  One of the things that I love about sewing Vogue patterns is that they sometimes have some very interesting techniques for constructing a garment.  The construction of the right top at the arm was one of those cases.  To my surprise, it went together very well.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I have some likes and dislikes.

Likes

• The style of the bodysuit.  I love the drape about the neckline and the scarf. And the asymmetric stabilized neckline is a winner. too

Dislikes

 

• Now, the way that vogue instructs on how to finish the leg hole and the snap area, I didn't appreciate at all.  It did not make sense to me.  But for the sake of following the instructions for this wearable muslin, I finished the leg hole and snap area as instructed.  Next time I will probably add a little more to the edges and sew on elastic to finish the area.

Fabric Used:  My fabric came from Walmart.  I got it out of the 2 yard discount bend.  I only paid $4.00 for it.  It is a soft, light weight knit with 75% crosswise stretch required for this top.  Note:  having enough crosswise stretch is key.  Make sure you take the amount of stretch into consideration if you plan to make this top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I used what I'll say is a short-cut on the FBA.  If you've been following this blog for at least a year, you know that I love making the Molly Tee and have made several of them throughout the years.  It comes with bust cup sizes, I think, up to G.  I have my pattern at the ready at all times.  So, I placed my Molly Tee under the front of the Vogue V2049 to determine the FBA.  I totally ignored the darts.  Then I added the "curved width" needed to make this new top fit.  When I constructed the bodysuit, I did make darts as instructed.  It worked out perfectly.

 

I'm hope  I'll be able to take of picture of me wearing it soon.  But for now, I'm showing it on the dress form.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, this was my wearable muslin.  I think that I will make it as a top, though.  We will see how that goes later.  I do recommend it to others.  Caution, this is not a typical t-shirt pattern.  I can sew up a simple t-shirt within an hour and a half.  This bodysuit took about 3 hours to make minus putting on the snaps.  It takes time and patience on the neckline and drape.

Conclusion:   I really like how this bodysuit turned out with the exception of the finishing of the leg hole and snap area.  The attractive neckline is a winner.  

 

Happy Sewing!

 

C